Seeing as, almost inevitably, a project I am involved in relating to food has brought up the subject of bread and beer, it seems appropriate to record here the ancient English tradition of ‘Wayfarer’s Dole‘. Growing up as I did near Winchester in Hampshire I might have known about this sooner, but it wasn’t until I ended up living outside on the hillside above The Hospital of St. Cross (during the 1990’s protests against the M3 Extension through Twyford Down) that it was drawn to my attention. If you call at the Porter’s Lodge and ask for Dole, they’ll give you a small piece of bread and a little cup of beer, the cup is traditionally made from horn. This early form of charity or alms for poor travellers used to delight us ‘Eco-Warriors’ and we’d always be popping down and introducing others to the free offerings. Helping those in need, with a small portion of something you have in abundance. Call it ‘dole’ or ‘welfare’ or ‘handouts’ is something people have quietly done without judgement in England since before the country was even called that.